A Winter Farmers Market to Warm the Stomach and Soul

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One way or another we all have been affected by the polar vortex, a new weather phenomenon that has been coined by AccuWeather or as they prefer to say, "extreme arctic air coming south". Winter is a time where the earth breathes in, a moment for pause and most of all for me — reflection. I have been doing my fair share of reflecting and 2013 by far has been one of the most challenging, creative and enriching years of my life. The construction of Sheridan Green has been an amazing feat — as some of you know — and confidently I can say that this week a final inspection is scheduled; prayers are welcome for a certificate of occupancy. And in between managing and nurturing the building process I have met some of the most amazing edible artisans and craftsman of the East End and made new friends along the way. 

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We may not be in the height of a bustling harvest or running into one another at a local farm stand, but in the middle of winter there are plenty of artisanal edibles and chitchat to warm the stomach and soul, you just need to seek it out. A dash of craft and a dose of local nibbles were what I needed and what better way to combat the polar vortex than at a winter farmers market in Bridgehampton on the grounds of the Topping Rose House in the restored barn. This gathering was a celebration and thaw from the frigid grasp we have all been under for the past month. As attendees mingled with artists, artisans and local farmers inside, it seemed Heat Miser made a deal with Snow Miser for a bit of warmth and sunshine outside; It was a balmy 47 degrees and sunny.

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The turnout was so sensational that some vendors ran out of items. Holly Browder of Browder's Birds was selling pickled eggs, dry rubs, barbecue sauce, brine and of course fresh farm eggs; I snatched the last dozen — lucky me. Kate Pratt of East Hampton Gourmet had to call her partner Michel Mazuret to bring her more of their signature Lentil Rice Crispbreads as they were selling out. Mecox Bay Dairy was inundated with cheese lovers hovering over their table to nibble on their most celebrated varieties: Atlantic Mist, Sigit and Mecox Sunrise. I walked away with a pound of their grass-fed ground beef and a farmhouse cheddar. Deborah Lukasik of Southampton Soap Company was selling her sudsy craft left and right; thankfully I got to her table in time to hoard the evergreen soap that she featured in a 2013 holiday pack, truly invigorating. Long Island Mushroom was showing off their finest fungus and I took away a 1/2 pound of shiitakes. Chef de Cuisine Ty Kotz of Topping Rose thanked all 31 vendors personally for participating in their first ever farmers market — I thought this was a warm touch. I first met chef Kotz at the Great Chefs Dinner and I was blown away by his beet risotto that tasted equally as beautiful as it looked; fingers crossed that he puts it on the menu.

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Topping Rose plans to host another winter farmers market on Saturday, February 15, from 11 a.m. - 2 p.m. If you cannot wait that long and tired of hibernating under Snow Misers ice plunge the Riverhead farmers market opening day is February 1, at 117 East Main Street, in the old Swezey's building and will be open on Saturdays from 11 a.m. - 3 p.m., from February 1 — May 17.

I had big plans for my edible purchase. A dish that would leave you feeling warm and comforted, just like I felt at the Topping Rose winter farmers market.

How does homemade egg noodles with grass-fed beef meatballs in a Parmesan shiitake broth sound? This dish is all about comfort and will take you out of your icy doldrums.

Egg noodles with grass-fed beef meatballs in a Parmesan shiitake broth

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ingredients

Egg Noodles

  • 2 cups of flour
  • 3 egg yolks
  • 1 egg
  • 1 teaspoon of salt
  • 1/3 - 1/2 cup water

Meatballs in Parmesan Shiitake Broth

  • 4 cups of chicken stock
  • 1/2 pound of shiitake mushrooms, thinly sliced
  • 1 medium - large Parmesan rind 
  • 1 lb ground grass fed beef
  • 1 cup of whole ricotta cheese
  • 1/2 cup of fresh italian bread chopped (trim the crust)
  • 1/3 cup milk
  • 1 teaspoon of sea salt
  • 1 teaspoon of freshly ground pepper
  • 3 tablespoons of italian parsley, chopped
  • 3 cloves garlic, minced
  • flour for dredging meatballs
  • 1/3 cup of grated parmesan cheese
  • 6 tablespoons of olive oil

directions

Egg Noodles

  1. Combine flour and salt in a large bowl. Make a well in center and crack eggs into it.
  2. Take a spoon and mix together gently. Add water if dough is not forming a ball. Begin to use your hands when dough begins to come together. It should be slightly tacky.  
  3. Wrap dough in plastic wrap and set aside for 30 minutes. You can refrigerate the dough up to a day. Be sure to have it rest on the counter for 30 minutes to bring to room temperature before rolling out.
  4. Lightly flour your working surface. This will keep the dough from sticking. Roll out the dough with a rolling pin, working from the middle out.
  5. When the dough is about a 1/4 inch thick, cut the dough into strips with a pizza cutter. I found the pizza cutter to be the best but you can use a large knife. If you have a hand crank pasta machine or kitchen-aid attachment you can use that too. But this pasta is super easy to do by hand and is fun. Do not worry if your noodles are crooked, this is all about comfort. I cut them in long strips at a 1/2 inch wide.

    Note: When the meatballs in Parmesan shiitake broth is almost done, cook the noodles in boiling salted water until they float, about 3 minutes.

    Meatballs in Parmesan Shiitake Broth
     
  6. In a large pot add the chicken stock and Parmesan rinds.; cover and let simmer.

  7. In a large skillet over medium heat add 3 tablespoons of olive oil. Once hot add the Shiitake mushrooms and sauté until the mushrooms are tender, about 3 minutes. Then add the shiitakes to the broth and continue simmering.

  8. In a large bowl, combine the beef, bread, garlic, ricotta, parmesan, salt, pepper, milk and parsley. Lightly mix everything together without overworking the meat, should be light and not compact.

  9. Once everything is combined, place a large piece of parchment or tinfoil on a baking sheet. Roll the meatballs into 1-inch round with your hands and then dredge in flour and place the meatballs on the baking sheet.  Repeat until all the meatballs are ready to be seared.

  10. In the same skillet you used for the shiitakes, heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil over medium heat. Add the meatballs, working in batches to not overcrowd the pan. Use tongs to turn the meatballs and cook until all sides are browned, approximately 5 minutes. You are simply doing a quick sear not cooking the meatball entirely. Place the meatballs in the broth as you go.

  11. Let the broth and meatballs simmer for 30 - 45 minutes.

    Assembly
     

  12. When done place a laddle of the broth on the bottom of the bowl, add he egg noodles and then a few meatballs with the broth and shiitakes. If you desire sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and serve with some crusty bread.

Timpano, a Thanksgiving Tradition

Typically, the Thanksgiving Turkey is the highlight of one of the most indulgent days of the year. 3 years ago the Timpano trumped its way to being the star at our Thanksgiving Table. This dish was inspired by the 1996 movie Big Night, about a failing Italian restaurant run by two brothers Primo (Tony Shalhoub) and Secondo (Stanley Tucci) who gambles on one special night to try to save the business. They plunge themselves into preparations for this "big night", spending their last savings on the food and inviting dozens of people to join them in an amazing feast centered around the timpano (which means eardrum in Italian). Below is a clip from the movie Big Night. 

It all started three years ago with a group of friends at the local dog park who wanted to have a dinner party themed after the movie Big Night, where we would watch the movie and bring dishes which were reflected in the movie. I took on the challenge of making the Timpano and began my research in preparing this dish a month in advance by purchasing the book, Cucina & Famiglia, where the Tucci's family recipe for the Timpano resides. My first attempt at making the Timpano was exactly by the book and since then I have made it my own; tweaking the recipe to the point where Thanksgiving guests from year to year have noticed the subtle differences and have become connoisseurs in their own right of this anticipated dish. I can relate first hand to the drama associated with creating a Timpano; "Is their enough sauce?" "Is the pasta al dente enough?" "Is their enough meatballs?" "Is it done?" "Will the Timpano stick to the drum when flipped over?" "Is it better than the last one"? The fuss and anticipation of the Timpano has become part of our Thanksgiving Feast and is worth every moment in creating this celebrated dish.

The making of the Timpano

Making the Timpano is time consuming and I recommend preparing a few days ahead of time. Once you make your first Timpano you may find yourself creating your own takes on the dish. My recipe has been evolving for three years now and the one provided below has been the best yet!

Dough

 ingredients

  • 4 cups flour
  • 4 large eggs
  • 1 tsp sea salt
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • 1/2 cup water reserved

directions

  1. Place flour, eggs, salt and olive oil in a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook.
  2. Add 3 tbsp water and process. If needed continue adding water 1 tbsp at a time, up to 1/2 cup, until the mixture comes together and forms a ball.
  3. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead into a smooth ball.
note: dough can be made 1 day in advance. Wrap in plastic wrap and store in refrigerator. Take out of the refrigerator an hour before use.

Sauce

ingredients

  • 6 garlic cloves whole
  • 1 medium white onion chopped
  • 1 can tomato paste
  • 2 cans of chopped and peeled tomatos
  • 2 cans of tomato pureé
  • 4 large basil leaves
  • 3 sweet Italian Sausage
  • 3 spicy Italian Sausage
  • 2 cups of water
  • Salt and Pepper
  • 4 tbsp of Olive Oil

directions

  1. Place 4 tbsp of Olive Oil in deep sauce pan over medium heat. Once the oil is heated place the sausages in pot and brown evenly on all sides and remove.
  2. Lower the heat to low and place garlic in pot for about 15 minutes until the garlic is soft but not brown. You simply want to infuse the oil with the garlic. Remove the garlic and place with the sausage.
  3. Bring the heat back up to medium and saute´the onions until translucent and then place the tomato paste in and cook for 2 more minutes.
  4. Then put the cans of tomato pureé and chopped into the pot with the garlic and then add the 2 cups of water.
  5. If you have a hand immersion blender use to pureé the sauce in the pot. You want the sauce to be smooth for the Timpano.
  6. Then place in the sausages, basil, salt and pepper to taste and cook for about 2 hours.
note: the sauce can be done 2 days in advance and stored in refrigerator. Take out of the refrigerator an hour before use.

Little Meatballs

ingredients

  • 1 pound ground beef, veal and pork
  • 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley leaves
  • 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  • 1 large egg
  • 5 tablespoons finely grated pecorino Romano cheese
  • salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • 10 (1-inch thick) slices Italian bread

directions

  1. Arrange bread on cookie sheet and allow it to dry out for 3 days before use.
  2. Place dried bread in a bowl; add warm water to cover. Set aside 5 minutes until bread softens.
  3. In another bowl, combine meat mixture, parsley, garlic, egg, cheese, salt and pepper; use your hands to mix. 
  4. Squeeze water out of bread and break it into small pieces. Work bread into meat until combined and the mixture holds together like soft dough. 
  5. Warm olive oil in a large frying pan set over medium-high heat. Make 1 inch meatballs round and cook for 6 minutes until well-browned on all sides. (do not cook all the way through as it will cook in the Timpano).
note: the meatballs can be done a day in advance and stored in refrigerator. Take out of the refrigerator an hour before use.

Assembly

An hour before assembling the Timpano you want to make sure all your ingredients are prepped and ready to go. Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

ingredients

  • 2 cups sharp Provolone cheese, cut in 1/2-by-1/2-inch pieces
  • 1 cup finely grated pecorino Romano cheese
  • 1 cup of ricotta cheese
  • 12 hard-boiled eggs, shelled, and quartered lengthwise
  • 2 cups little Meatballs (recipe above)
  • 2 cups of sausages, cut in 1/2-by-1/2-inch pieces
  • 7.5 cups of sauce (recipe above), plus 1/2 cup of water
  • 3 pounds ziti, cooked very al dente (half the time) 18 cups of pasta for the Timpano
  • 4 large eggs, beaten
  • 1 pat of butter and 1 tbsp olive oil to coat the enamel bowl

materials

note: If the Timpano sticks to the bowl simply slide a knife along the edge. I have never had an issue with sticking so make sure you generously grease your Timpano bowl. 
You should be able to see the pasta patterns on the dough, if not that means your dough may be slightly too thick.

directions

  1. Bring a pot of well salted water to boil to accomodate 3 pounds of pasta and cook the ziti for only half the time so it is very al dente. Strain pasta and run under cool water to stop the cooking.
  2. Pour 1.5 cups of the reserved sauce plus half cup of water on the ziti and combine.
  3. Generously grease timpano enamel bowl with butter and olive.
  4. Flatten dough on a lightly floured work surface. Dust top of dough with flour and roll it out, dusting with flour and flipping the dough over from time to time, until it is 1/16-inch thick and is the desired diameter. Should be about 24 inches in diameter.
  5. Fold dough in half and then in half again, to form a triangle, and place it in the pan. Open dough and arrange it in the pan, gently pressing it against the bottom and the sides, draping the extra dough over the sides.
  6. Distribute 6 generous cups of the pasta on the bottom of the timpano. Top with 1 cup of sausage, 1 cup of provolone, 6 hard-boiled eggs, 1 cup meatballs, 1/2 cup of ricotta and 1/2 cup Romano Cheese. Pour 2 cups ragu over these ingredients.
  7. Repeat step 7 and then top with the remainder 6 cups of pasta. The ingredients should be about 1 inch below the rim of the bowl.
  8. Pour 2 cups of ragu over the pasta and the 4 beaten eggs over filling.
  9. Fold pasta dough over filling to seal completely. Trim away and discard any double layers of dough.
  10. Place in oven for 1 hour. Check the Timpano frequently to make sure the top does not burn but should be golden brown.
  11. After 1 hour of cooking place tinfoil over the Timpano and cook for another 1/2 hour.
  12. Remove from oven and let cool for about 30 minutes. Say a prayer and then place a wooden board on top of the Timpano and flip the bowl over so the board is then at the bottom and then remove the bowl.
  13. The Timpano should sit for 2 hours before serving. If you cut the Timpano when it is hot it will fall apart.
  14. Using a long, sharp knife, cut a circle about 3 inches in diameter in the center of the timpano,making sure to cut all the way through to the bottom. Then slice the timpano as you would a pie into individual portions, leaving the center circle as a support for the remaining pieces. Makes Approximately 20 servings.
Happy Holidays and Timpano Making!