Outstanding in the Field: A Traveling Culinary Feast

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I didn't know what to expect when I arrived at the East End Community Organic (EECO) Farm in East Hampton for Outstanding in the Field: a traveling culinary feast that re-connects diners to the land, the origins of their food, and to honor the local farmers and food artisans who cultivate it. Since 1999, this outstanding crew has been hosting farm-to-table dinners for 100-plus locavores at some of the most awe-inspiring locations across the United States and Canada. The crew teams up with farmers and chefs at each location to prepare a five-course feast using local and seasonal ingredients.

I watched Jim Denevan, founder of Outstanding in the Field, carefully place an "Eat Local" sign on the front of the iconic 1953 red and white Flxible bus that the crew travels on to each culinary adventure. 

A long dining table that would accommodate 120 guests was situated perpendicular to the bus—spanning east to west—and aligned with two Poplar trees at the east end of the table; this exact location was very reflective of the nave of a church or holy table for what we were about to receive. 

Jim Denevan's artistic nature, precision and placement of the table or sign are no surprise, as he is a landscape artist and surfer whose creative sensibilities and balance are immersed in nature. Whether carefully studying the horizon to create a giant raked drawing on a beach or catching the perfect wave, his talents are fleeting to the natural environment. He is a maker of moments and his culinary table installations within the flora and fauna are reminiscent of the Storm King Wall of landscape artist, photographer and sculptor Andy Goldsworthy—who happens to be one of my most favorite artists.

Speaking of favorites, chef Jason Weiner of Almond created the menu for the evening and I became an instant fan when I tasted his stunning corn vichyssoise at the Great Chefs Dinner . His beautiful presentation and delicate balance of flavors reminded me of a summer sunset along the dunes of the South Fork. That dish left such a lasting impression on me that I knew the evenings’ meal was going to be spectacular.  

Diners began to arrive at 3 p.m. to sip Channing Daughters 2012 Cuvee Tropical and nibble on hors d'oeuvres of tête de cochon with peach mostarda, smoked bluefish with cucumber, dill and yogurt, chicken liver crostini with pickled onion and oysters with yellow gazpacho.

 

Téte de Cochon with Peach Mostarda

Smoked bluefish with cucumber, dill and yogurt

Chicken liver crostini with pickled onion

 

Oysters with yellow gazpacho

Ian Calder-Piedmont giving the EECO farm tour

While guests were on the farm tour, given by Ian Calder-Piedmonte, co-founder and farmer of Balsam Farms and Outreach Director of the EECO Farm, chef Weiner was preparing the most anticipated feast that was locally-sourced from Amber Wave Farm, Balsam Farms, Good Water Farms, Mecox Bay Dairy, Paumanok Vineyards, Pike Farms, Root 'n Roost Farm, Long Island Mushroom Farm, Marilee Foster, Montauk Shellfish Company, and seafood from Montauk CSF, Dock to Dish. 

The tour ended at the long dining table that sat amongst the flower and vegetable gardens. Convivial diners grabbed one of the many colorful dishes provided and took a seat for the five-course meal. The weather was sunny and comfortable; Mother Nature would sneak a swirl of wind once and awhile to remind us that fall is gently upon us. 

Kareem Massoud, Winemaker of Paumanok Vineyards pouring 2012 Dry Riesling

Paumanok Vineyards 2012 Dry Riesling was paired with the first course: tuna crudo with frisée, green zebras tomatoes, sungold tomatoes, red radishes, purple Cherokees, avocado, and garlic croutons. Oh my, the colors in this dish looked like a beautiful bouquet of flowers, very reflective of the blossoms that were all around us. The freshest sushi grade tuna blanketed the beautiful bounty that was just harvested—truly a lovely start.

Tuna crudo with frisée, green zebras tomatoes, sungold tomatoes, red radishes, purple Cherokees, avocado, and garlic croutons. Dock to Dish Yellowfin Tuna caught by Captain Ralph Towlen by Rod and Reel

Channing Daughters 2011 Pinot Grigio was paired with the second course: “Fish-n-Chips” of black sea bass, mahi mahi, fingerling tostones, baby arugula and a five herb rémoulade. Chef Weiner and his crew deep-fried the mahi mahi filets and black sea bass whole. The warm fish and tostones toppled the baby arugula and I could not get enough of the remoulade that brought a brightness to the fried fish—I was in heaven.

Fish 'n Chips of black sea bass from Montauk and mahi mahi caught by Captain Ralph Towlen of Dock to Dish.

Fish 'n Chips - black sea bass from Montauk CSF, Dock to Dish

Channing Daughters 2011 Tocai Friulano Mudd West Vineyard was paired with the third course: Blue mussels with coriander, saffron, leeks, rouille, grilled bread and smoked tomato. I cannot emphasize how sweet and fresh the mussels were. I enjoyed the heat from chili peppers in the rouille that topped the mussels. My only wish was that we had a few loaves of bread to soak up the "liquid gold" that pooled on the bottom of the heath ceramic bowls — a drinking straw would have worked too.

Dock to Dish sourced Wild blue mussels harvested by Captain John Berglin.

Dock to Dish sourced Wild blue mussels harvested by Captain John Berglin.

Paumanok 2012 Cabernet Franc was paired with the fourth course: chicken fricassée with maitake mushrooms, kale, charred corn, red onion and pomme puree. We were dining by candlelight at this point and we had to rely on our sense of taste to guide the way. Luckily, I saw the steps in preparing this dish and the ingredients were layered until it formed an amazing heap for us to uncover. Every bite was different: the grilled chicken had a light smoky undertone, the mushrooms had a pleasant chewiness, the sweet corn and red onions were crisp, the potato puree was smooth, velvety and complemented the braised kale. If there was a dish that could be eaten in the dark, it is this one. I found it interesting to decipher what I was tasting—this was over the top.

Grilled chicken for the fricassée

Chicken fricassée

The fifth course: ricotta cheese tart with husk cherries and Thai basil. I never heard of husk cherries and coincidentally this past week I saw Amber Wave Farm on the television show "The Chew" and one of the crops featured were their husk cherries. When I saw them on the menu I could not wait to try this mysteries fruit. The flavor is a mix between a tomatillo, cherry tomato and grape. These golden beauties were on top of the light ricotta cheese tart and when you would take a bite the sweetness of the fruit would burst— a nice play with the creamy ricotta.

Ricotta cheese tart with husk cherries and Thai basil

Throughout the evening I mingled with like-minded strangers and made new friends. Some of these folks were on their second, third and even fourth Outstanding in the Field dinner. It is easy to understand why these dinners can become an obsessive love affair; it is magical and captivates a moment for us diners to give pause and thanks to the contributors of the feast. Outstanding in the Field is continuously poetic, a culinary art installation that I want to be part of again and again—Outstanding! Bravo! Bravo!

Summer Harvest Caponata

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While my father’s fig tree at his home in East Quogue, New York is being sun-kissed by the glorious days of late summer and we await the next fig bonanza harvest, the black beauty and Hansel eggplants in his garden are in clusters and purple bounds, waiting to be picked for a summer harvest caponata.

Black beauties are large and bell-shaped: my choice when making Melanzane alla Parmigiana (eggplant Parmesan) and one of the many Italian dishes I grew up on. But when it comes to caponata, a popular Sicilian condiment whose main ingredient is eggplant, I break a few rules that I hope will not make my grandparents roll and grumble in their grave.

During the holidays my grandparents would make a caponata with the consistency of a dark brown relish; it tasted sweet and savory. This would accompany the antipasto: cured meats, olives, pickled vegetables and mushrooms, artichoke hearts, hot peppers, fennel, various cheeses and crispy Italian bread. A meal-like portion of this relish on a piece—or two—of bread with a chunk of salty provolone cheese, delicioso! 

I recreated this Italian delicacy from my childhood with a few twists. I use the young Hansel eggplants that are tender, slender and less bitter than the black beauty variety, roasted instead of fried, and with the addition of cherry tomatoes to highlight the late summer harvest.

The only grumbling I hear from below is my stomach hungry for some caponata. 

 

Summer Harvest Caponata

ingredients

  • 2 pounds of Hansel or slender eggplant, cut into 1/2-inch cubes. 
    note: you can use any variety of eggplant available to you.
  • Sea salt and pepper
  • extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 large onion, chopped
  • 1 pound of cherry tomatoes, cut in half
  • 3/4 cup pitted green olives, roughly chopped
  • 3/4 cup celery ribs and fronds, thinly sliced
  • 3 tablespoons capers
  • 3 tablespoons of toasted pignoli nuts
  • 2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar
  • 1 tablespoon of natural sugar
  • 3 tablespoons of water
  • 3 tablespoons of tomato paste
  • 3 tablespoons of basil, chopped

 

directions

  1. Place the eggplant on one baking sheet and the cherry tomatoes on another. Drizzle both with 3 tablespoons of olive oil and 1 tablespoon of sea salt. Place in a 400° oven and bake for 30 minutes or until tender; set-aside.
  2. Lightly toast pignoli nuts in a small frying pan until fragrant; set-aside.
  3. Meanwhile, in a large dutch oven pot or large pan, heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil over medium-high heat. Add onion, stirring occasionally, until onion softens, about 5 minutes. Then add the celery and cook for, 5 minutes. Add tomato paste and cook for, 2 minutes. Add water to pan and stir until incorporated.
  4. Then gently fold the eggplant into the pan mixture and cook for, 2 minutes. Add the roasted cherry tomatoes, capers, olives, vinegar, sugar, 1 tablespoon of salt and 1 teaspoon of pepper; fold in gently and cook for, 2 minutes. Then add the toasted pignoli nuts, basil and gently fold in.
  5. Remove from heat; let cool completely. 

Note: Caponata keeps for up to one week refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before serving.

Serving suggestions

Perfect as a crostini or to accompany a charcuterie and cheese plate.

Complements fish or chicken beautifully. Shown below is Dock to Dish line caught Golden Tilefish from Montauk.

Harvest East End Cheers to 40 Years of Winemaking on Long Island

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Long Island Wine Country had a lot to celebrate about. In fact, 1,300 enthusiasts of wine and food, including Governor Andrew Cuomo joyously gathered under a festive billowing tent to raise a glass and cheer for 40 years of winemaking at the 4th Annual Harvest East End at McCall Vineyard & Ranch in Cutchogue New York. The regions farms, fishermen, 34 local top chefs and 43 vintners showcased the bounty of the land, sea and vines. It was the first year that this vinous and edible gala was held on the North Fork of Long Island and how fitting considering two pioneers were honored for giving rise to one of the world’s most exciting viticultural and culinary destinations: Louisa Hargrave co-founder of Hargrave Vineyards (now known as Castello di Borghese Vineyard) for planting the first vitis vinifera grapes with her former husband Alex Hargrave, and John Ross, who established Ross’ North Fork restaurant that featured local wines and grown food that helped ignite the farm-to-table movement on the North Fork; all of which was 40 years ago.

Governor of New York Andrew Cuomo. Photography credit: Jessica Guadagno

“Put tourism together with the wine industry, and they can grow an entire region,” says Governor Cuomo. “And that’s what you’re seeing here on the North Fork of Long Island.”

The Master of Ceremonies was Joshua Wesson, a leading authority on wine and food pairing, the founder of Best Cellars and author of Williams-Sonoma Food & Wine—A New Look at Flavor that he signed for fans. Harvest was presented by Wine Enthusiast Magazine and organized by the Long Island Wine Council with support from Merliance, that benefited four important regional charities: East End Hospice, Group for the East End, the Peconic Land Trust and the Long Island Farm Bureau.

And to top it off Out East Foodie has come full circle—It was my first anniversary. Last year’s Harvest East End was my debut where I was introduced to the edible artisans of the East End: chefs, fishermen, farmers, cheesemakers, and vintners to name a few. I am humbled to be surrounded by the people of this region who are passionate and dedicated to their craft or cause. I have told the stories of a few over the course of the year, shared recipes that have been inspired by the bounty of the two forks and am honored to continue to do so. This fall our sustainable home Sheridan Green will be complete. It will be a place where like-minded stewards of the land and sea can come together to talk story, enjoy amazing food and drink and share inspiration in a great space.

A wine and food celebration

Guests were given their own personal wine glass that was attached to a lanyard like strap to put around your neck to ease the juggling dilemma between holding a wine glass and a plate of food; thank you Harvest East End for this welcomed convenience as balancing the glass, camera, plate of food, iPhone and purse is a social media hodgepodge. 

Beautifully designed wine labels by Bouquet Wines from Mattituck, New York

My husband Christopher enjoyed the wine tasting and particularly liked Mattebella Vineyards Old World Blend.

Coolfish Grill and Wine Bar served bay scallops mango ceviche; the mango was an unexpected twist.

Mirabelle at Three Village Inn served a unique Crème brûlée that was made with duck eggs, infused with vanilla bean and topped with a sprinkle of maple bacon crumble, simply fantastic.

A refreshing and delicious watermelon gazpacho that was garnished with a Koppert Cress micro shiso amongst a beautiful flower arrangement.

First and South restaurant may have topped their chocolate covered pork rinds from Dan's Taste of Two Forks. In an oyster shell they baked an edible cracker mocking the shell and placed the oyster, and a dollop of homemade horseradish and ketchup on top, brilliant.

The North Fork Table and Inn made a spicy marinated McCall Ranch Beef summer roll with wasabi aioli.  This tasted as beautiful as it looked.

Gourmet Sorbet by the Sorbabes: Top-strawberry rhubarb crumble (my favorite), Right-pistachio with sea salted caramel, Bottom-coconut chai with macaroons and Left-passionfruit lychee. All gluten-free and non-dairy made with seasonal ingredients.

Jewel restaurant by Tom Schaudel served a corn chowder with crab. The balance of this dish was singing the bounty of the two forks, was truly lovely.

A Taste of the North Fork made meatballs with cHarissa, hummus and cilantro. The meatballs had a Moroccan flare of interesting spices from the cHarissa, really tasty.

To continue with the meatball theme a Mano Osteria and Wine Bar made a veal meatball with a lobster bisque sauce. I was unsure about the veal and lobster combo, but it was a match made in heaven.

The heart of the billowing tent was lit up with colorful lanterns, as the VIP attendees sipped older vintages and special selections of East End wines presented by Empire Merchants. Although there was a white picket fence that separated the VIP's from the rest, we all had a few things in common, the love for wine and food in Long Island Wine Country.